Arisaig
For the first time in what seems like a long time, we took the opportunity to get away for a few days, heading north toward the 57th parallel. The days are longer here, the beaches are gorgeous and the waters are clear. This was also a first overnighting trip in Garaidh, our VW camper van, and the furthest journey so far in our mobile holiday home.
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We booked two nights at the Portnadoran campsite between Arisaig and Mòrar, with a plan to do a third somewhere on the way home via Ardnamurchan.
Portnadoran is more working croft than it is a tourist hot-spot. There are horses, cattle and a prize-winning bull. The facilities are functional so we were comfortable enough after one night1. The location is just superb.
Once we had settled, we decided that we didn’t want to do all the unpacking and setting up again at a new location, and resolved to spend the three nights of our break here. There is a lot of work involved in preparing for a trip like this, and no small workload in reconfiguring the van for its daytime, night-time and on the road roles.
The effort paid off, and we were rewarded with a truly peaceful and restorative holiday. I certainly did not do all the things I thought I might do – the book remained unread, sketch pad unopened, paintbox untouched, ukulele safe in its case. We were just too busy…
One of the pleasures of this place is that it is not crowded, although there are people here, doing what people do. This water is perfect for swimming safely (no jellyfish to be seen), fishing, kayaking and paddle boarding. We took the drone with us too, and to be fair we are really out of practice with it. I had to “Google” how to switch the thing on again. We did manage to capture some of the atmosphere, though.
Breakfasts were, as outdoor breakfasts are, superb, as were the snacks but on the second day we took a day out to Glenuig for lunch at the Community Inn. That would be justification in itself but the principle reason for this excursion was to visit the Ardshealach Smokehouse. We both enjoy good Scottish smoked food and the Glenuig smokery is one of the best in the country. We picked up some hot smoked salmon, Lochaber smoked cheese and smoked wild venison.
The last day came too soon. Our route home was via Glenfinnan – the “Harry Potter” viaduct – only a lunatic would want to stop there nowadays, and there were plenty of them making the attempt. I am sure she meant no harm, but J.K. Rowling has ruined the place for us. Dumbledore’s grave at Eilean Na Moine has not suffered in the same way. We did pass the train chuff-chuffing towards the waiting mobs as we travelled the road south by Loch Eil. I have to admit, there is a proper excitement that accompanies a steam locomotive. On the way home, we made a brief lunch stop at Glen Etive to enjoy some of the Ardshealach smoked cheese and venison on oatcakes. Free entertainment, as if we needed it in such a stunning location, was provided by the hired-car tourists trying to negotiate the new paved car park arrangement at the viewpoint where the Coupall meets the River Etive.
It took two full days for return, reunion, and reintegration following the trip, including processing the images2. Campervanning is hard work, it seems, especially for those like us who are new to it. Without doubt, it is worth it.
